Seasonal, travel

Travel Guide: Martha’s Vineyard

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Hello all!

This past July I had the pleasure of visiting Martha’s Vineyard for the first time and I’m so excited to share my adventures with you!

Martha’s Vineyard is an island of about 96 square miles, just seven miles south off the coast of Cape Cod, Massachusetts. It consists of six towns spread across different parts of the island and they each have very distinct, unique vibes. The towns are: Tisbury, Edgartown, Oak Bluffs, West Tisbury, Chilmark, and Aquinnah. Thankfully, I had the opportunity to visit three of the six towns, and aim to visit the others when I next return.

My mom and I mainly stayed in Oak Bluffs, which is known for their beautifully distinctive gingerbread cottages that are a visual feast! I loved strolling through the streets taking in the unique architecture of the area at all times of the day. Since our hotel was in Oak Bluffs and we didn’t have a car on the island, we mainly stuck to that area, but took day trips to both Edgartown and Vineyard Haven (part of Tisbury). Thankfully, we packed quite a lot into our brief 5-day trip to the Vineyard, but I know we’re already looking forward to our return!

First, I’ll share some facts about Martha’s Vineyard:

  • The island’s population fluctuates between seasons: The year-round population is close to 23,000, and the summer can have as many as 200,000 people.
  • Approximately one-third of the Island’s land mass is protected – meaning you’ll never find big chain hotels on the beaches, and there are miles of hiking and biking trails.
  • Thanks to the Gulf Stream, Martha’s Vineyard enjoys a very temperate climate. In summer, the Island is typically 8-12 degrees cooler than mainland Massachusetts, and in winter, between 8-12 degrees warmer.
  • Fifty local farms, bountiful oceans, and local commitment to sustainable agriculture means you can constantly enjoy locally grown, made or caught food. Farmers Markets operate throughout the summer and even into the fall and winter months.
  • No chain stores, restaurants or hotels here; rather, a perfect place for entrepreneurs, and to find one-of-a-kind shopping, dining and lodging.
  • A vibrant arts and culture scene means that year-round you can enjoy sophisticated experiences such as galleries, live music, theater, dance and exciting speakers series in a wonderfully casual environment.
  • Read more about MV on the Official Chamber of Commerce Website!

I was fairly familiar with Martha’s Vineyard growing up – I spent my childhood summers vacationing on the nearby island of Nantucket (which I’ve written previous posts about, and will have an update coming soon) and had friends who visiting frequently, but never went myself. When my mom wanted to do a special mother-daughter girl’s trip for her 70th birthday this summer, we both thought this was a great opportunity to explore a new place! (She had been once as a girl scout in the 60s for one night camping…so she didn’t really get to “experience” the island.)

Let me just say we were so impressed with our first visit to the island – it truly felt like everyone was on vacation and the whole place was filled with relaxation and positive vibes. I loved that each town we visited also had it’s own distinct vibe – Vineyard Haven was quieter and more local-focused, Oak Bluffs had the quaint historical cottages and cute small shops, and Edgartown felt more like Nantucket/quintessential New England with the gray houses and upscale stores. You could taste how high-quality and fresh all the food was, and there was an endless supply of activities to do or beaches to relax at. It truly is a perfect vacation spot with something for everyone!

Without further ado, I’ll give you the rundown of the places we went, where we ate, what we did, and any other recommendations I have for visitors to the island! I’ll also include a few spots we didn’t get to, but plan to visit immediately when we return!

Where to Stay:

  • Narragansett House – this is where my mom and I stayed in Oak Bluffs – we LOVED getting to live in a historic gingerbread cottage during our stay that was just a few block’s walk from either town or the beach. The ambiance was so soothing, amenities and staff were pristine, and location was spot on! I can’t wait to be back!
  • Inkwell House – the sister hotel to Narragansett House also in Oak Bluffs, but located on a beautiful road looking out onto Inkwell beach! (Because the hotels are connected, we could pick up/drop off our beach towels here instead of lugging them back to our hotel!)
  • Pequot House – I passed by this cute hotel a few times walking about Oak Bluffs and loved the welcoming, cheerful vibes of the hotel!
  • The Oak Bluffs Inn – Another adorable historic inn located in a gingerbread house!
  • Faraway Martha’s Vineyard – while I’m familiar with the Faraway on Nantucket, they recently opened this sister version of the boutique hotel in Edgartown!
  • The Lightkeeper’s Inn – this quaint little inn in Edgartown looks like a perfect vacation spot!

How to Get Around:

  • Martha’s Vineyard Transit Authority (VTA) – we each bought a 3-day pass ($18 total, $6 per day) to have unlimited access getting around the island. It was so fun, accessible, and easy, we didn’t even feel we needed a car – definitely the most affordable method of transportation on island!
  • Cars – you can rent a car or bring your own to the island.
  • Rideshares – they do have taxis and lyft/ubers, but fair warning they can be pricey.
  • Bikes – you can’t go wrong with biking around the towns while on island!

What to Do:

  • Beach Time – there are so many beautiful beaches throughout the whole island, but my mom and I stuck to the nearby Inkwell Beach for our lazy days
  • Jaws Bridge – you can take a risk (and get a fabulous photo opp) by jumping from the bridge that was featured in the iconic 1975 movie Jaws
  • Tour the historic Gingerbread Houses – the Martha’s Vineyard Camp Meeting Association hosts public guided walking tour at 11am every Tuesday/Thursday throughout July and August for $12. Private tours can be scheduled May-October for $15 per person. I would highly recommend the tour, as the tickets also give you access to the Cottage Museum, and you learn so much about the history of Oak Bluffs and Martha’s Vineyard!
  • Grand Illumination (scheduled for August 24, 2024) is an annual event held on island that includes gingerbread cottage decorated with lanterns, music and dancing, and lots of fun themed activities! This tradition is held on the third Wednesday of August.
  • Martha’s Vineyard Museum – this is truly such an island gem! The recently renovated museum is located in a former hospital/camp site in Vineyard Haven with absolutely stunning harbor views! The museum features a lot of different exhibits (ranging from the history of the Jaws film to the island’s boat-building heritage to the legacy of the deaf community to an interactive kid’s section) but all are relatively small or well-planned so you’re not overwhelmed. I absolutely loved learning more about the island’s history through our visit and can’t recommend this museum enough!
  • Visit Gay Head Lighthouse in Aquinnah – the beautiful rainbow lighthouse is definitely a must-see!
  • The Arcade in Oak Bluffs – I loved walking around this vintage arcade filled with fun games for the whole family!
  • Ride The Flying Horses Carousel – one of the oldest still-functioning carousels operating in the US, this is such fun to experience at any age when in Oak Bluffs!
  • Mariposa Museum in Oak Bluffs – “the Mariposa explores American history and experience through a diverse lens and the creativity of artists, scholars, storytellers, and others who cherish Oak Bluffs’ welcoming spirit.” Highly recommend stopping in!
  • Edgartown Books – y’all know I had to check out the local island bookstore! I loved perusing staff recommendations and loved how they had a full calendar of author talks and book signings all summer long!
  • Edgartown Historic Tours – at 11am, Thursday – Saturday, the Carnegie Heritage Center’s Historic Tour is a 60-minute guided walking tour of Edgartown. Take to the streets, winding through the harbor and Main Streets to learn about the Island’s rich maritime history– from the nineteenth century to the present. Go inside six Vineyard Preservation Trust historic landmarks, and see other important sites along Edgartown Harbor. Featured Properties include: Vincent House of 1672, the resplendent Dr. Daniel Fisher House & Gardens, the masterful Old Whaling Church, Old Sculpin Gallery, Norton Boat House, Edgartown Harbor, and The Carnegie. I missed this tour but want to take it when I return!
  • Shopping – I absolutely loved the array of unique small businesses found on Martha’s Vineyard!
    • A few faves are: Stefanie Wolf Designs (in Oaks Bluffs, has an array of locally-crafted items and unique pieces), The Laughing Bear (in Oak Bluffs, had lots of great island-friendly apparel and carried my fave clip on earrings!) The Black Dog (flagship store in Vineyard Haven, but you can find locations throughout the island), Vineyard Vines (you almost *have* to visit this iconic brand’s namesake)

Where to Eat:

Here I’ll share the places we dined at, where they were located, and if they had any standout dishes, as well as a list of a few places I was unable to get to but are on the top of my list for next time!

Oak Bluffs:

  • Mocha Mott’s – best coffee in Oak Bluffs! I went there a few mornings and loved trying their different drinks.
  • Back Door Donuts – this famous bakery is a must-visit when on MV! The donuts truly live up to the hype!
  • Martha’s Vineyard Chowder Company – one of our favorite lunch spots – this restaurant truly has the best new england clam chowder (with no bacon/pork!)
  • Nancy’s – another favorite lunch spot we visited twice during our trip – their lobster rolls and fish tacos are everything! Pro tip: sit upstairs at their “bar seats” that overlook the harbor!
  • The Red Cat Kitchen – where we went our first night on island and it was EXCEPTIONAL – the vibes are funky, upscale bar and you simply must try their scallops!
  • The Sweet Life Cafe – the ambiance of this restaurant located in a historic home can’t be beat! And the food was excellent – definitely our most upscale meal
  • Ben & Bill’s Chocolate Emporium (for apparently the best ice cream on island!)
  • Mad Martha’s Homemade Ice Cream – an island ice cream staple!

Vineyard Haven:

  • Black Dog Tavern – we simply had to eat at this iconic restaurant. It serves amazing local food – we absolutely adored our fish n chips and the local beers they had on tap! I loved the waterside views where we could watch ferries stopping by as we ate dinner. (They also have a highly-regarded clam chowder, but it contains bacon so we didn’t get to try it.)

Edgartown:

  • Behind the Bookstore – this incredible cafe is located right behind Edgartown Books. Their selection of salads, sandwiches, and coffees was excellent. Definitely more elevated than your typical cafe. AND they have an outdoor Hemingway Bar that I NEED to try when I return!
  • The Seafood Shanty – this delicious spot is a favorite for locals and tourists alike! The menu features local, fresh seafood and stunning harbor views from their rooftop patio! Pro Tip: arrive early and be prepared to wait for patio seating, as they don’t take reservations.
  • Ice Cream and Candy Bazaar – there’s nothing like being transported back in time to a vintage candy & ice cream shop!

Restaurants I wish we had time to try:

I hope this inspires you all to take your next trip to Martha’s Vineyard! While I visited during the summer, I hear autumn on the island is simply beautilful!

XOXO

Parisa

All photos of me taken by Arletta Weddings Photography! She was an absolute dream to work with!

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